Chinatown

A Stroll Through Chinatown: Unraveling Chinatown Culture Through Streetscapes

by Gilbert Zhang

Mott Street represents the foundation of Chinese immigrant presence in New York City, established in the late 19th century when the first significant Chinese population settled in Lower Manhattan. Today, it remains both a living cultural repository and a dynamic commercial center. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

From Chatham Square to Grand Street, generations of Chinese immigrants have woven vibrant tapestries of culture, commerce, and community that continue to evolve with each passing decade. What began in the late 19th century has blossomed into a thriving and multidimensional neighborhood. These streets, with their hanging lanterns, bilingual signage, and lively markets reflect much more than just an ethnic enclave; they embody the experience of Asian American immigrants—and the new generation.

The story of these neighborhoods is not just one of survival, but of resilience and adaptation, as they have navigated the complexities of urban life in one of the world's most dynamic cities. Given an ever shifting culture and a growing younger generation, what's next for Chinatown?

This photo depicts a section of Forsyth Street running along the Manhattan Bridge. Under the bridge, people can be seen gathering around street vendors selling fresh fruits, vegetables, homemade foods, and other miscellaneous household goods. The street is a bustling hub of activity, with vendors setting up stalls daily and locals hunting for fresh produce and good deals. Photo taken with an iPhone 12.

This image captures Eldridge Street in Manhattan's Chinatown, where the pulse of everyday commerce unfolds beneath fire escapes and vertical Chinese signage. Street vendors display their wares on metal racks along the sidewalk—clothing, bags, and household goods carefully arranged while shopkeepers keep watchful eyes on their merchandise. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

This photo was take just down Forsyth Street with the Manhattan Bridge going overhead. On the right is the past entrance to the East Broadway Mall, a shopping center that was once a breathing hub for Chinese-American businesses. The mall closed in 2019 due to economic challenges and changing consumer habits. Photo taken with an iPhone 12.

Lucy sells accessories and souvenir items on the sidewalk of Grand Street close to the subway station. Her stall has become a familiar sight for locals. HeyTea can be seen in the background. They are a popular smoothie and tea shop that has gained a following among younger generations. Photo taken with an iPhone 12.

"How's it going, Lucy? I haven't seen you in a while!" a passerby enthusiastically greets her with a smile and a handshake. They catch up for a moment before the passerby continues on their way.

Lucy tells the story of many elderly Asian people: "I sell souvinir on the side of the street because it's an easy way to make money." She has been selling her wares for over 20 years, and her stall has become a familiar sight for locals. "I love this neighborhood. I know everyone here. I know all the shop owners, and they know me. We all look out for each other. It's like a family."

Sara D. Roosevelt Park is a park located in the heart of Chinatown next to the Grand Street subway station. The park is a popular gathering place for local residents and features a playground, basketball courts, and a community garden. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

[Translated from Cantonese] "Whenever the weather is nice, there's always parents playing with kids in the playground, teenagers playing basketball and soccer on the courts, and older gentlemen playing handball," observes Mrs. Li, a frequent park-goer who has lived in the neighborhood for over three decades.

Rainbow Pavilion Detail

Located on Mott Street, Rainbow Pavilion is a store that sells a variety of Chinese stationary and decorative items. The storefront is lined with bold-red and gold paper lanterns, firecrackers, and other paraphernalia that are commonly used during Lunar New Year. An auspicious color, red symbolizes good fortune and joy, while gold represents wealth and prosperity. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

The outskirts of Chinatown are much more romanticized than its bustling core, transformed by the discerning gaze of outsiders seeking an "authentic" yet comfortable cultural experience. Here, at the blurry boundaries where Chinatown bleeds into SoHo or the Lower East Side, upscale dim sum restaurants with minimalist interiors and craft cocktail menus replace the fluorescent-lit banquet halls favored by locals.

Pell Street is a historic street in Chinatown, considered part of "Little Hong Kong." It is lined with restaurants, beauty salons, and game rooms. The street is a popular destination for tourists and locals. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

Doyers Street is a short street in Chinatown. Althought it was named after a Dutch tavern owner, a Chinese population bloomed around it in the late 1800s-early 1900s with a theater, tea house, and a post office. Rice Terraces (on the ground), a painting by Dasic Fernandez and a mural of Corky Lee (see below), are located on the street. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

Corky Lee (September 5, 1947 ‐ January 27, 2021) was a Chinese-American photojournalist and activist known for his work documenting an authentic and unmoderated view of the Asian-American experience. Famously describing his camera as a "weapon of injustice," Lee's work often documented the struggles and triumphs of Asian-Americans not often seen in mainstream media. This mural, located on the corner of Doyers St. and Bowery St., is a tribute to his legacy and impact on the Asian-American community. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

Wah Fung Fast Food is a popular hole-in-the-wall eatery located on Chrystie St. It is known for its delicious and affordable roast pork and duck rice plates. The restaurant has a loyal following among locals and tourists alike, who often line up outside to get their fix. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

Molly Tea is an emerging tea shop focusing on the natural flavors and health benefits of tea. The shop is especially popular among younger generations, who can be seen lining up outside the store. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

The Canal Street subway station (alongside Grand Street) is a major artery for connecting the Chinatown neighborhood to the rest of Manhattan. The Q and N train allows for an easy commute to other Chinese neighborhoods in Brooklyn and Queens, enabling interconnection between the three communities. Photo taken with a Canon EOS Rebel T7 DSLR Camera.

Today, young Chinese Americans and recent immigrants negotiate their relationships with this historic neighborhood, balancing the weight of their heritage with the realities of modern life. Chinatown finds itself at a crossroads of preservation and progress, where the past and future coexist in a delicate dance. Some return to open businesses that honor traditional techniques while introducing contemporary sensibilities. Others advocate for affordable housing and commercial rent control to ensure the neighborhood remains accessible to working-class immigrants.

Businesses and people have opened, closed, changed, and adapted through decades of economic shifts, gentrification pressures, and cultural evolution, yet the soul of these neighborhoods remains—a testament to the enduring spirit of immigrant communities that have transformed urban spaces into homes away from home.


Comment from the author:

This was an assignment on photojournalism for my Journalism class at Brooklyn Technical High School. I picked Chinatown because it is a neighborhood I am familiar with and have lived in for a large majority of my life. The specific topic of gentrification came to life when I was walking around my neighborhood and saw how different it was from when I was a child (for one: I couldn't buy beef skewers from that spot anymore D:). I wish that moving forwards, the neighborhood can find a balance between preserving its rich history and culture while also adapting to the needs of the new generation.

I'd like to thank Renee for teaching me how to use a DLSR camera.

I'd like to thank Mr. Virzi for forcing me to take these photos and write this essay.

I'd like to thank Lucy and Mrs. Li for agreeing to be interviewed.